[Emc-users] Tida_TD-1336_lathe

[Kirk Wallace]

A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it by
today." I guess he knows me well enough to know that I could not refuse.
I have had it a couple of days and I took some time to scrape the first
layer of grime off of it and take some pictures.
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/

One of the control panels indicates it is a Samson TD-1336 (13" x 36")
and that it was made in Taiwan in 1982. It looks like a common Chinese
lathe offered by Grizzly or Harbor Freight. It doesn't have a lot of
wear, but has been abused. The back gears are stripped, the cross slide
has been crashed into, the spindle and chuck have been hammered on
extensively.

It's too early to have a firm plan for this machine, but I'm thinking
that I would like to convert it to:
- 2hp 3 phase motor, VFD, belt drive, encoder (remove everything down to
the spindle shaft)
- Servo, ballscrew and encoder for Z (remove change gear and feed
drives)
- Servo, ballscrew and encoder for X (remove cross slide and apron)
- replace missing tail stock
- regrind spindle D1-4 surfaces
- regrind chuck surfaces
- maybe replace spindle bearings if they show hammering damage
- of course add LinuxCNC controller

[Gene Heskett]

Post by Kirk Wallace
A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it
by today." I guess he knows me well enough to know that I could not
refuse. I have had it a couple of days and I took some time to scrape
the first layer of grime off of it and take some pictures.
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/
One of the control panels indicates it is a Samson TD-1336 (13" x 36")
and that it was made in Taiwan in 1982. It looks like a common Chinese
lathe offered by Grizzly or Harbor Freight. It doesn't have a lot of
wear, but has been abused. The back gears are stripped, the cross
slide has been crashed into, the spindle and chuck have been hammered
on extensively.
It's too early to have a firm plan for this machine, but I'm thinking
- 2hp 3 phase motor, VFD, belt drive, encoder (remove everything down
to the spindle shaft)
- Servo, ballscrew and encoder for Z (remove change gear and feed
drives)
- Servo, ballscrew and encoder for X (remove cross slide and apron)
- replace missing tail stock
- regrind spindle D1-4 surfaces
- regrind chuck surfaces
- maybe replace spindle bearings if they show hammering damage
- of course add LinuxCNC controller

All of the above, sounds like a plan. :).

Cheers, Gene Heskett

[John Alexander Stewart]

Kirk - why replace the tailstock? With gang tooling, you'll be able to make
lots of things...

(I'm -slowly- CNCing a smaller 8x18 lathe)

John.

[Kirk Wallace]

Post by John Alexander Stewart
Kirk - why replace the tailstock? With gang tooling, you'll be able to make
lots of things...
(I'm -slowly- CNCing a smaller 8x18 lathe)
John.

I see a lot of similar 13 x 36 lathes marketed as gunsmith lathes. The
long bed seems to be a feature. It's my understanding a tailstock would
be needed for long workpieces, but won't need one right away.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-x-36-Gunsmithing-Lathe/G0750G

I have a Hardinge linuxHNC screw machine for short work so I'm covered
there.
http://www.wallacecompany.com/cnc_lathe/HNC/

[MC Cason]

Take LOTS of pictures as you go along, with a summary of accomplishments.

Post by Kirk Wallace
A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it by
today." I guess he knows me well enough to know that I could not refuse.
I have had it a couple of days and I took some time to scrape the first
layer of grime off of it and take some pictures.
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/
One of the control panels indicates it is a Samson TD-1336 (13" x 36")
and that it was made in Taiwan in 1982. It looks like a common Chinese
lathe offered by Grizzly or Harbor Freight. It doesn't have a lot of
wear, but has been abused. The back gears are stripped, the cross slide
has been crashed into, the spindle and chuck have been hammered on
extensively.
It's too early to have a firm plan for this machine, but I'm thinking
- 2hp 3 phase motor, VFD, belt drive, encoder (remove everything down to
the spindle shaft)
- Servo, ballscrew and encoder for Z (remove change gear and feed
drives)
- Servo, ballscrew and encoder for X (remove cross slide and apron)
- replace missing tail stock
- regrind spindle D1-4 surfaces
- regrind chuck surfaces
- maybe replace spindle bearings if they show hammering damage
- of course add LinuxCNC controller

[Gregg Eshelman]

If you can figure out what Grizzly called that one when they sold it (they seem to have at some point sold every design of Chinese and Taiwan made mill and lathe) you may be able to get some parts, or at least download a manual.
I know JET sold that lathe during their "green period" before they went to the cream color with black and red stripe.


From: Kirk Wallace <***@wallacecompany.com>
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) <emc-***@lists.sourceforge.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2017 4:37 PM
Subject: [Emc-users] Tida_TD-1336_lathe

A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it by
today." I guess he knows me well enough to know that I could not refuse.
I have had it a couple of days and I took some time to scrape the first
layer of grime off of it and take some pictures.
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/

One of the control panels indicates it is a Samson TD-1336 (13" x 36")
and that it was made in Taiwan in 1982. It looks like a common Chinese
lathe offered by Grizzly or Harbor Freight. It doesn't have a lot of
wear, but has been abused. The back gears are stripped, the cross slide
has been crashed into, the spindle and chuck have been hammered on
extensively.

[dragon]

Kirk,

You have a big brother of the lathe that followed me home! It literally
followed me on a trailer ;) Your's does look in rough shape.

It is a 1979 Jet 1024P made in Taiwan. It came with a companion, a 1980
Jet JVM-626 benchtop knee mill. While old and definitely used, mine were
very well cared for. I even got a bunch of the paperwork and the
original tools and tool boxes. They both have 1.5hp spindle motors. The
mill came with a 5" riser, 4" Kurt and an 8" rotary table that I plan to
turn into an A-axis. The lathe came with steady rest, 3-jaw, faceplate,
and a spare chuck backing plate.

My plans for the lathe...
- leave the apron on for a bit of extra mass and put ballnut inside
- 3 phase motor and VFD combo
- ditch spindle belt engagement system
- ditch the belt drive counter shaft if possible
- remove the compound
- T-slot plate for top of cross slide to allow gang tooling
- remove power feed/threading gearbox on headstock
- remove all of the threading gear train under the left cover and add
encoder for threading

I have scrounged or found cheap the following parts so far...
- E661 servo motors with encoders
- ***@60v output transformers
- rectifiers and capacitors
- a couple of almost new 2hp 3 phase motors (free on CL)
- ballscrews for the knee and Y on the mill
- ~750 lbs. chunk of granite to mount the lathe on

Does anyone have a suggestion for somewhere to host the build/conversion
progress and post pictures?

-Todd

Post by Kirk Wallace
A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it by
today." I guess he knows me well enough to know that I could not refuse.
I have had it a couple of days and I took some time to scrape the first
layer of grime off of it and take some pictures.
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/
One of the control panels indicates it is a Samson TD-1336 (13" x 36")
and that it was made in Taiwan in 1982. It looks like a common Chinese
lathe offered by Grizzly or Harbor Freight. It doesn't have a lot of
wear, but has been abused. The back gears are stripped, the cross slide
has been crashed into, the spindle and chuck have been hammered on
extensively.
It's too early to have a firm plan for this machine, but I'm thinking
- 2hp 3 phase motor, VFD, belt drive, encoder (remove everything down to
the spindle shaft)
- Servo, ballscrew and encoder for Z (remove change gear and feed
drives)
- Servo, ballscrew and encoder for X (remove cross slide and apron)
- replace missing tail stock
- regrind spindle D1-4 surfaces
- regrind chuck surfaces
- maybe replace spindle bearings if they show hammering damage
- of course add LinuxCNC controller

[andy pugh]

Post by dragon
Does anyone have a suggestion for somewhere to host the build/conversion
progress and post pictures?

I use Blogger.
http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/holbrook1.html

[MC Cason]

I don't know about the others, but I use Flickr. Uploading is fairly
painless, and you can sort photos into albums. You can even add
comments to the pictures.

Whatever you do, please, PLEASE do not use Photobucket. They have
WAY to many ads.

Here is one example of my Flickr albums.

Setting up a new D1-4 Gator chuck and backing plate:
https://flic.kr/s/aHskx9AGfK

Post by dragon
Kirk,
You have a big brother of the lathe that followed me home! It literally
followed me on a trailer ;) Your's does look in rough shape.
It is a 1979 Jet 1024P made in Taiwan. It came with a companion, a 1980
Jet JVM-626 benchtop knee mill. While old and definitely used, mine were
very well cared for. I even got a bunch of the paperwork and the
original tools and tool boxes. They both have 1.5hp spindle motors. The
mill came with a 5" riser, 4" Kurt and an 8" rotary table that I plan to
turn into an A-axis. The lathe came with steady rest, 3-jaw, faceplate,
and a spare chuck backing plate.
My plans for the lathe...
- leave the apron on for a bit of extra mass and put ballnut inside
- 3 phase motor and VFD combo
- ditch spindle belt engagement system
- ditch the belt drive counter shaft if possible
- remove the compound
- T-slot plate for top of cross slide to allow gang tooling
- remove power feed/threading gearbox on headstock
- remove all of the threading gear train under the left cover and add
encoder for threading
I have scrounged or found cheap the following parts so far...
- E661 servo motors with encoders
- rectifiers and capacitors
- a couple of almost new 2hp 3 phase motors (free on CL)
- ballscrews for the knee and Y on the mill
- ~750 lbs. chunk of granite to mount the lathe on
Does anyone have a suggestion for somewhere to host the build/conversion
progress and post pictures?
-Todd

[John Thornton]

I have a Samson TB 6B 16" x 48" and it will swing a 20" face place with
the drop bed removed (never done that). Mine is in pretty good shape for
an 80's lathe and I use it regular. I can't wait to see your conversion
might inspire me to convert the ole Samson.

JT

Post by Kirk Wallace
A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it by
today." I guess he knows me well enough to know that I could not refuse.
I have had it a couple of days and I took some time to scrape the first
layer of grime off of it and take some pictures.
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/
One of the control panels indicates it is a Samson TD-1336 (13" x 36")
and that it was made in Taiwan in 1982. It looks like a common Chinese
lathe offered by Grizzly or Harbor Freight. It doesn't have a lot of
wear, but has been abused. The back gears are stripped, the cross slide
has been crashed into, the spindle and chuck have been hammered on
extensively.
It's too early to have a firm plan for this machine, but I'm thinking
- 2hp 3 phase motor, VFD, belt drive, encoder (remove everything down to
the spindle shaft)
- Servo, ballscrew and encoder for Z (remove change gear and feed
drives)
- Servo, ballscrew and encoder for X (remove cross slide and apron)
- replace missing tail stock
- regrind spindle D1-4 surfaces
- regrind chuck surfaces
- maybe replace spindle bearings if they show hammering damage
- of course add LinuxCNC controller

[Kirk Wallace]

Post by Kirk Wallace
A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it by
today." I guess he knows me well enough to know that I could not refuse.
I have had it a couple of days and I took some time to scrape the first
layer of grime off of it and take some pictures.
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/

... snip

Another thing I'm curious about. I haven't used a D1-4 Camlock before
and I can't seem to find information on how to use it. I did find the
specifications:
http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html

but mine is a little different than the one shown in the link above. The
linked spindle shows the cam is just clockwise of the chuck pin puller
hole. Mine is counter clockwise which suggests that the locking motion
is different.

Post by Kirk Wallace
Loading Image...

Looking closer, the example chuck plate is like mine. The spindle
picture suggests righty-tighty (clock-wise-tighty), the chuck example
and my lathe suggest counter-clock-wise-tighty. Do D1-4 mounts go both
ways? Also, I found information that the pull pins need to be adjusted
so that the cams will detent when tight. Any help clearing this up would
be appreciated.

[Kirk Wallace]

Post by Kirk Wallace

Post by Kirk Wallace
A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it by
today." I guess he knows me well enough to know that I could not refuse.
I have had it a couple of days and I took some time to scrape the first
layer of grime off of it and take some pictures.
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/

... snip
Another thing I'm curious about. I haven't used a D1-4 Camlock before
and I can't seem to find information on how to use it. I did find the
http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html

Another thing came to mind, I placed a 5C collet in the spindle bore and
the hole is larger. Is there typically an insert for this bore to adapt
to 5C?

[andy pugh]

Post by Kirk Wallace
Another thing came to mind, I placed a 5C collet in the spindle bore and
the hole is larger. Is there typically an insert for this bore to adapt
to 5C?

Yes, Or an insert for a different size collet. Typically the spindle
bore is a plain taper (sometimes Morse, often not) and the lathe comes
with an adaptor for a fixed-centre.

There are also D1-4 to 5C adaptors:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5C-5-Collet-Chuck-with-Integral-D1-4-CAMLOCK-Mounting-Stud-5-8-0269-0014-/161615306971

[Ken Strauss]

I assume that your spindle is MT5.

From http://chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=87907

"The collet adapter that adapts the spindle bore from a MT #5 taper to
accept 5-C collets is available by part number. The part number is P4026001
Collet Adapter priced at $30.00 plus shipping and handling. The use of a
drawtube or drawbar will still be necessary for the collet adapter to remain
centered and stable in the spindle bore."

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2017 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Tida_TD-1336_lathe

Post by Kirk Wallace

Post by Kirk Wallace
A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and
said "I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can
bring it by today." I guess he knows me well enough to know that I

could

not refuse.

Post by Kirk Wallace

Post by Kirk Wallace
I have had it a couple of days and I took some time to scrape the
first layer of grime off of it and take some pictures.
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/

... snip
Another thing I'm curious about. I haven't used a D1-4 Camlock before
and I can't seem to find information on how to use it. I did find the
http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html

Another thing came to mind, I placed a 5C collet in the spindle bore and

the

hole is larger. Is there typically an insert for this bore to adapt to 5C?
--
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/

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[andy pugh]

Post by Kirk Wallace
. Do D1-4 mounts go both
ways?

I don't know. How interesting.

Are there any marks around the camlock squares? Normally there are
little marks that show when you are in the safe range.

You take out the locking screw and screw the pins in and out to get
the pointer between the marks.

It might be worth getting a good-quality backplate or face-plate to
use as a gauge if you re-grind the nose.
The chuck should pull up far enough onto the taper to touch the flat
face (ie, no gap).

[andy pugh]

Post by Kirk Wallace
http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html
but mine is a little different than the one shown in the link above. The
linked spindle shows the cam is just clockwise of the chuck pin puller
hole. Mine is counter clockwise which suggests that the locking motion
is different.

That photo looks suspiciously like the one on lathes.co.uk
http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page9.html

And I suspect has been flipped or mis-drawn.

The ISO standard (702-2) seems quite clear that the pins are clockwise
of the cams.

[Peter Blodow]

Kirk,
on my Graziano SAG 12 there is a similar spindle head with the camlock
fastening system. I made a lot of additional bolts for different chucks
and faceplates so I had all the parts in my hands quite frequently.
The locking inserts (nuts or what you call them) in the spindle head
are excentric in the middle and symmetrical so you can fasten the
camlock either way, left or right. We are used to tighten clockwise, so
I prefer this. The bolts are screwed loosely into the plate into
randomly cut threads and only prevented from turning by an additional
1/4" bolt, so it depends on chance just exactly how far they protrude
when screwed in. (To show the desired position, they have a ring groove
which is supposed to be about even with the faceplate's surface.) The
excentricity of the nuts and the camlock bolts with their (weird) low
pitch threads are designed as to tolerate this. Of course, there may by
no means a gap between the spindle head and the plate. And when
tightening, the wrench must come to a final position where no more
movement is possible.

Peter

Post by Kirk Wallace

Post by Kirk Wallace
A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it by
today." I guess he knows me well enough to know that I could not refuse.
I have had it a couple of days and I took some time to scrape the first
layer of grime off of it and take some pictures.
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/

... snip
Another thing I'm curious about. I haven't used a D1-4 Camlock before
and I can't seem to find information on how to use it. I did find the
http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html
but mine is a little different than the one shown in the link above. The
linked spindle shows the cam is just clockwise of the chuck pin puller
hole. Mine is counter clockwise which suggests that the locking motion
is different.

Post by Kirk Wallace
http://wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Tida_Samson_TD-1336_lathe/IMG_1774-1a.JPG

Looking closer, the example chuck plate is like mine. The spindle
picture suggests righty-tighty (clock-wise-tighty), the chuck example
and my lathe suggest counter-clock-wise-tighty. Do D1-4 mounts go both
ways? Also, I found information that the pull pins need to be adjusted
so that the cams will detent when tight. Any help clearing this up would
be appreciated.

---
Diese E-Mail wurde von Avast Antivirus-Software auf Viren geprüft.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

[Nicklas Karlsson]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 15:37:31 -0800

Post by Kirk Wallace
A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it by
today.

Where do you get friends like that?

[Kirk Wallace]

Post by Nicklas Karlsson
On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 15:37:31 -0800

Post by Kirk Wallace
A lathe showed up on my doorstep (almost). A friend called up and said
"I've got a lathe in my trailer and I want to know if I can bring it by
today.

Where do you get friends like that?

I just got lucky (unlucky?). I looked for my first CNC machine for quite
a few years and ended up paying too much when I finally found one close
by (Hardinge HNC). (I found the Shizuoka mill on eBay for a really good
price, but moving it myself was something I won't forget.)

This same friend gave me me two mills and a lathe before:
http://www.wallacecompany.com/old_lathe/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/Std_Engr_Works/
and an old Cincinnati knee mill without a head.

I think he wanted to keep the Tida lathe to use but gave up trying to
get it to work. (I found a motor starter switch that had burned away
contacts and other wiring issues. I could have fixed these if he had
asked but it's too late now.)

The plan is to restore the oldest lathe and horizontal mill, and build a
new head for the Cincinnati and maybe converting to CNC. Then sell the
machines that I end up not using.

[andy pugh]

Post by Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/old_lathe/

Is there any makers name anywhere? The tailstock is rather
distinctive, but you could spend a long time on lathes.co.uk looking
for a match.

it ought to be relatively easy to press new (steel) gears on to
replace the broken back-gears.

[dragon]

Kirk,

I forgot to mention that I read somewhere online that it is actually
common for the back gears to get broken on these lathes. It comes from
user error. There is a threaded pin on one of the spindle gears that you
need to engage and disengage. If you keep it engaged while you have the
backgear also engaged both the belt and backgear try to drive the
spindle shaft. That of course does not end well.

While it is no longer produced, Grizzly still has the manual available
for the model G9249 lathe. It is of very similar design.

Post by andy pugh

Post by Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/old_lathe/

Is there any makers name anywhere? The tailstock is rather
distinctive, but you could spend a long time on lathes.co.uk looking
for a match.
it ought to be relatively easy to press new (steel) gears on to
replace the broken back-gears.

[Gene Heskett]

Post by dragon
Kirk,
I forgot to mention that I read somewhere online that it is actually
common for the back gears to get broken on these lathes. It comes from
user error. There is a threaded pin on one of the spindle gears that
you need to engage and disengage. If you keep it engaged while you
have the backgear also engaged both the belt and backgear try to drive
the spindle shaft. That of course does not end well.

While I cannot see that it would do anything but lock itself and burn up
the spindle drive belts on my Sheldon if it was turned on in that locked
condition. With the OEM 3/4 horse, or this VFD driven 1 horse. But, it
does seem to have a reputation for broken backgears. I would much
rather believe the chuck got stuck, and the desperate operator engaged
both pin and backgear to lock it, then put a 2 foot crescent wrench on a
jaw to unscrew it. That I can believe would overstress the teeth, if not
outright break them. But who can say for sure when that may have
occurred in the history of a 50+ year old machine that just followed you
home?

Post by dragon
While it is no longer produced, Grizzly still has the manual available
for the model G9249 lathe. It is of very similar design.

On 2 February 2017 at 04:03, Kirk Wallace

Post by Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/old_lathe/

Is there any makers name anywhere? The tailstock is rather
distinctive, but you could spend a long time on lathes.co.uk looking
for a match.
it ought to be relatively easy to press new (steel) gears on to
replace the broken back-gears.

Cheers, Gene Heskett

[andy pugh]

Post by Gene Heskett
I would much
rather believe the chuck got stuck, and the desperate operator engaged
both pin and backgear to lock it, then put a 2 foot crescent wrench on a
jaw to unscrew it.

Is there any other way to get a chuck off?

My Chinese lathe had pin-holes in the spindle, but then it had no
back-gear. Any other lathe I have used with a screw-on nose has been
done that way.

[Gene Heskett]

Post by andy pugh

Post by Gene Heskett
I would much
rather believe the chuck got stuck, and the desperate operator
engaged both pin and backgear to lock it, then put a 2 foot crescent
wrench on a jaw to unscrew it.

Is there any other way to get a chuck off?
My Chinese lathe had pin-holes in the spindle, but then it had no
back-gear. Any other lathe I have used with a screw-on nose has been
done that way.

I'm doing mine that way too and so far a 10" and a dead blow hammer thats
about a pound has been sufficient. But I was just reading up on a link
you supplied that it should be freshly oiled with 10W mineral oil
everytime its re-installed, and I have not been doing that, so its
getting harder to snap it loose. Side tracked by the concern for the hot
countershaft bearings I guess. Bad dog, no biscuit.

Cheers, Gene Heskett

[Kirk Wallace]

Post by andy pugh

Post by Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/old_lathe/

Is there any makers name anywhere? The tailstock is rather
distinctive, but you could spend a long time on lathes.co.uk looking
for a match.

I did a search for the "Samson td1336" on the control panel and got a
few hits for Tida. Then later found Tida on the cross slide handle.

Post by andy pugh
it ought to be relatively easy to press new (steel) gears on to
replace the broken back-gears.

The back gears won't be needed. The motor will be changed out for a
3-phase motor and VFD, so the step pulleys go away. The plan is to copy
the HNC electric clutch system for high and low:
Loading Image...
http://www.wallacecompany.com/cnc_lathe/HNC/
so the back gears go away.

I'm also thinking about leaving space on the spindle shaft for a worm
gear so that the spindle can be used for C axis or dividing.
Loading Image...
http://www.lathes.co.uk/lorch/page8.html

[andy pugh]

Post by Kirk Wallace

Post by andy pugh
Is there any makers name anywhere? The tailstock is rather
distinctive, but you could spend a long time on lathes.co.uk looking
for a match.

I did a search for the "Samson td1336" on the control panel

I was talking about the nice old lathe, not your useful one :-)

[Kirk Wallace]

Post by andy pugh

Post by Kirk Wallace

Post by andy pugh
Is there any makers name anywhere? The tailstock is rather
distinctive, but you could spend a long time on lathes.co.uk looking
for a match.

I did a search for the "Samson td1336" on the control panel

I was talking about the nice old lathe, not your useful one :-)

This one?
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http://www.wallacecompany.com/old_lathe/

I did a lot of cleaning and wire brushing, but haven't come across a
makers mark yet. It's pretty poorly made so I'm thinking it's a 1940's
cheap knock-off of a 1920's lathe, but I really don't know. The biggest
problem with this project is the badly worn bed. It's not worth sending
to the Bay Area to be reground. I'm going to have to become much more
clever to figure out how to do it myself.