Honestly I had a RF31 round column mill drill for quite awhile. Initially I
bought it to help me convert my RF45 I CNC'd and honestly I WISH I had
never sold it. It is a GREAT little benchtop mill and there are a bunch of
folks who have CNC'd them with good results. There are of course some
issues with the round column but there are work arounds that work well. If
I had one here and did not already have a Cincinatti arrow 500 VMC here
working I would consider CNC'ing the round column. A square column RF45 is
a better choice probably but if I found another RF31 for a good price
somewhere I would not hesitate to snap it up again. Peace
Pete
On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 5:21 PM, Art Eckstein <***@gmail.com>wrote:
> At 05:02 PM 6/21/2013, you wrote:
> >I'm thinking about converting my jet jmd-18 mill/drill with round
> >column, but thing that worries me the most right from the start is,
> >if Z axis would be accurate enough.
> >
> >There is one solution by reversing quill spring so it is forcing
> >axis all the time downwards and this way you get rid of backlash on
> >worm gear, next thing is how solve problem with quill lock, which is
> >meant to be used when quill is in desired position (height) so you
> >lock it to increase stiffness (and accuracy) on Z axis.
> >So did anyone here did any similar conversion and have a solution or
> >suggestion for this?
> >
> >here is machine's pic:
> >http://www.rustan.ru/sites/default/files/JMD-18F.jpg
>
>
> I cnc'd my RF31 about 13 years ago and had the same concerns as you.
> Instead of reversing the spring, I got rid of it and replaced it with
> a needle thrust bearing and a cap to keep the pinion shaft from
> moving in and out (yes, it did and cause some problems as it allowed
> the worm wheel ride up and down on the worm enough to break the worm
> wheel) and put a counter balance on it to maintain tension.
> Then on the right hand side, I loosened the two socket head screws
> that holds the fine down feed housing to the head and gently tapped
> the housing to make a tighter fit of the pinion shaft to the rack (be
> careful as you can do to much!) and finally, as I put my servo on the
> fine down feed shaft, removed the chrome bezel and made a proper
> sized spacer that is held in by the plate for my servo motor to
> rigidly locate the worm shaft so it could not move in and out and
> again contribute to backlash. OH and the quill lock is in a drawer
> someplace. The servo maintains proper height.
>
> Has worked well for me all these years!
>
> Art
> Country Bubba
>
>
>
> >
>
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