[Emc-users] Need a pix

Post by Gene Heskett
However at 6" of travel (and closer to 9" overall by the time the beam
mounting brackets are added) for its overall length, thats about 4.5"
too long w/o quite a bit of it sticking out past the plunger. Because
that puts part of it well past a live center, I'm a bit spooky about it
being easily damaged should something give way at speed.

Rather than risk ruining the scale, what about making a short flat on
the back of the tailstock, affixing an Alu offset block wide enough to
generously clear the handwheel radius, then extending the handwheel hub
to bring your knuckles clear of the skinning device? By the time beam
mounting brackets are added to the Alu block, you're probably out past
the handwheel radius pretty quickly.

What I've usually seen on tailstocks is a digital caliper with the
movable jaw clamped to the tailstock, and the fixed one clamped to the
spindle. If a 6" caliper is used, that's the finished length, as all
clamping is on the jaws. It's also quick to replace if there's only one
clamp screw on each jaw.

Mind you, there's nothing active in the scale, AIUI. If the one you have
is like the calipers, then it should be quite feasible to put a cutoff
wheel through it without loss of function on the rest of the length.

Erik

Gene Heskett

2017-07-13 04:55:02 UTC

Post by Erik Christiansen

Post by Gene Heskett
However at 6" of travel (and closer to 9" overall by the time the
beam mounting brackets are added) for its overall length, thats
about 4.5" too long w/o quite a bit of it sticking out past the
plunger. Because that puts part of it well past a live center, I'm a
bit spooky about it being easily damaged should something give way
at speed.

Rather than risk ruining the scale, what about making a short flat on
the back of the tailstock, affixing an Alu offset block wide enough to
generously clear the handwheel radius, then extending the handwheel
hub to bring your knuckles clear of the skinning device? By the time
beam mounting brackets are added to the Alu block, you're probably out
past the handwheel radius pretty quickly.
What I've usually seen on tailstocks is a digital caliper with the
movable jaw clamped to the tailstock, and the fixed one clamped to the
spindle. If a 6" caliper is used, that's the finished length, as all
clamping is on the jaws. It's also quick to replace if there's only
one clamp screw on each jaw.
Mind you, there's nothing active in the scale, AIUI. If the one you
have is like the calipers, then it should be quite feasible to put a
cutoff wheel through it without loss of function on the rest of the
length.
Erik

I might have it figured out, Erik, and it involves cutting about 2" off
the right end of the beam. Salvation comes in the fact that the barrel
can only be driven about 2.5" before it runs off the bolt threads. My
1.25" bore clamp on the barrel nose, if I can find some 1/4" hard alu
plate, will use about 1/8" of that travel. A rig with only 3" of travel
would actually be ok. If I can get it mounted laying on its back on the
mill, I can make a flat on the front face of the casting, getting it
below the top some for less potential falling object damage, and still
reach past it for the holddown bolts nut underneath, then another piece
of the 1/4" can be used to anchor the slider, and a stub I'm SWAG*ing at
5/8" tall off the barrel clamp will reach the bracket clamped to the end
of the beam. Getting the slider true to the barrel axis will be fun
because there is not a location on that barrel shaped casting thats dead
true to the axis of the barrel except the bottom V way.

I wouldn't mind a 1" longer bolt as it can only eject the 3/4" chuck with
a double flatted back end of the #2 Morse taper its on, but not the live
centers I have, which don't have the longer rear end, but its quite well
fitted southpaw thread. Guessing at 1/2" 13 tpi? The thrust bearing at
the handwheel has more slop than the bolt threads. 20-25 thou there at
least. Needs a shimstock washer, or 2?

Thanks for confirming there is not any active electronics in the scales
beam. I'll feel easier about cutting it off.

Cheers, Gene Heskett

--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

andy pugh

2017-07-13 11:27:35 UTC

Post by Gene Heskett
Greetings all;
I have rx'd a 6" scale with a remote readout, made by Shars, or at least
resold by Shars, with the intention of putting it on my Sheldon's
tailstock.

Instead of that, why not CNC-drill with the toolpost? You get
peck-drilling and accurate depth that way.

--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916

Gene Heskett

2017-07-13 13:38:47 UTC

Post by Gene Heskett
Greetings all;
I have rx'd a 6" scale with a remote readout, made by Shars, or at
least resold by Shars, with the intention of putting it on my
Sheldon's tailstock.

Instead of that, why not CNC-drill with the toolpost? You get
peck-drilling and accurate depth that way.

True Andy, but I'd need a truly aligned hole in the table to support the
workpiece, which is a stainless steel rod, already bored thru lengthwise
and cut rifled, with the ability to locate that bore to microinch
accuracy. Oh, and I forgot, the hole in the table would need to be a bit
over 30" deep.

IOW, this is a lathe job.

Cheers, Gene Heskett

--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

dave

2017-07-14 00:44:44 UTC

Post by Gene Heskett
Greetings all;
I have rx'd a 6" scale with a remote readout, made by Shars, or at
least resold by Shars, with the intention of putting it on my
Sheldon's tailstock.

Instead of that, why not CNC-drill with the toolpost? You get
peck-drilling and accurate depth that way.

Please allow me to attempt to draw a verbal picture related to what I
thought Andy was saying
Mount a decent or indecent piece of steel on the crossfeed, large enough
to allow for a collet.
I'm thinking 5C or 16C. With a drill mounted in the chuck drill a
starter hole. Mount a boring head
in the chuck and bore dia for your choice of collet. Back out and do the
taper. Make yourself
a nice brass or bronze nut to affix the collet(s) in the holder. This
can now hold very long drills
for drilling for barrel inserts, reamers as appropriate, boring
heads,boring bars, etc. Your X zero is as good as your measuring system
and mechanics, ditto with Z. You can shim up if necessary to align
in Y: or grind a bit off the bottom of the block. It is as stable and
stiff as your cross-slide.

Hope this is useful; I certainly have found it so.

Dave

dave

2017-07-14 02:54:18 UTC

Post by Gene Heskett
Greetings all;
I have rx'd a 6" scale with a remote readout, made by Shars, or at
least resold by Shars, with the intention of putting it on my
Sheldon's tailstock.

Instead of that, why not CNC-drill with the toolpost? You get
peck-drilling and accurate depth that way.

Please allow me to attempt to draw a verbal picture related to what I
thought Andy was saying
Mount a decent or indecent piece of steel on the crossfeed, large
enough to allow for a collet.
I'm thinking 5C or 16C. With a drill mounted in the chuck drill a
starter hole. Mount a boring head
in the chuck and bore dia for your choice of collet. Back out and do
the taper. Make yourself
a nice brass or bronze nut to affix the collet(s) in the holder. This
can now hold very long drills
for drilling for barrel inserts, reamers as appropriate, boring
heads,boring bars, etc. Your X zero is as good as your measuring
system and mechanics, ditto with Z. You can shim up if necessary to
align
in Y: or grind a bit off the bottom of the block. It is as stable and
stiff as your cross-slide.
Hope this is useful; I certainly have found it so.
Dave
Ouch! My brain is fried. How weather or age is getting to me. The
procedure for the taper is

clearly wrong. Do the taper in the mill with circular interp or mount
the block in the chuck and
do the taper. I used two .5" bolts to hold the block to the
cross-slide. I think that is stiff enuf.
Sorry.

Dave

Post by dave
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Lawrence Glaister

2017-07-14 04:51:32 UTC

Has anyone done up a lathe program (cgode) for machining dummy rounds in
various calibres? I an interested in 30-06 and 7.62x39mm rounds. Several
gun safety courses I have taken had dummy ammo, but not enough to demo
loading magazines and clearing a semi auto rifle. I thought it might be
a fun project to crank out a bunch of rounds on the lathe.
cheers
Lawrence

Gene Heskett

2017-07-14 05:41:33 UTC

Since the SAAMI drawings are in nearly every reloading manual extant,
writing the gcode s/b easy enough. Just don't do it in alu, use brass or
steel since alu is way to damned abrasive to cycle thru a weapon w/o
potential wear damage in the weapon. Same reasoning for never, ever
buying an alu cleaning rod, which will bellmouth the muzzle and the
accuracy will go away in due time.

Cheers, Gene Heskett

--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

Trent Hejazi

2017-07-14 11:36:02 UTC

most metallic snap caps are made from anodized aluminum. I made my ammo
models from the SAAMI specs also. was super easy. any material you are
comfortable with machining should be fine as long as you keep them clean,
same as you would do for regular ammo.
Marshall

Post by Lawrence Glaister
Has anyone done up a lathe program (cgode) for machining dummy rounds in
various calibres? I an interested in 30-06 and 7.62x39mm rounds. Several
gun safety courses I have taken had dummy ammo, but not enough to demo
loading magazines and clearing a semi auto rifle. I thought it might be a
fun project to crank out a bunch of rounds on the lathe.
cheers
Lawrence
------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most
engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
_______________________________________________
Emc-users mailing list
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Gene Heskett

2017-07-14 05:33:50 UTC

Post by Gene Heskett
Greetings all;
I have rx'd a 6" scale with a remote readout, made by Shars, or
at least resold by Shars, with the intention of putting it on my
Sheldon's tailstock.

Instead of that, why not CNC-drill with the toolpost? You get
peck-drilling and accurate depth that way.

True Andy, but I'd need a truly aligned hole in the table to
support the workpiece, which is a stainless steel rod, already
bored thru lengthwise and cut rifled, with the ability to locate
that bore to microinch accuracy. Oh, and I forgot, the hole in the
table would need to be a bit over 30" deep.
IOW, this is a lathe job.
Cheers, Gene Heskett

Please allow me to attempt to draw a verbal picture related to what
I thought Andy was saying
Mount a decent or indecent piece of steel on the crossfeed, large
enough to allow for a collet.
I'm thinking 5C or 16C. With a drill mounted in the chuck drill a
starter hole. Mount a boring head
in the chuck and bore dia for your choice of collet. Back out and do
the taper. Make yourself
a nice brass or bronze nut to affix the collet(s) in the holder.
This can now hold very long drills
for drilling for barrel inserts, reamers as appropriate, boring
heads,boring bars, etc. Your X zero is as good as your measuring
system and mechanics, ditto with Z. You can shim up if necessary to
align
in Y: or grind a bit off the bottom of the block. It is as stable
and stiff as your cross-slide.
Hope this is useful; I certainly have found it so.
Dave
Ouch! My brain is fried. How weather or age is getting to me. The
procedure for the taper is

I can't blame the weather, so that leaves the age of the wet ram. :( Much
more believable excuse since its north of 82 yo now. Might as well put a
smiley on it since there's not a lot I can do about that. :)

Post by dave
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
-------- Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's
most engaging tech sites, Slashdot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot
_______________________________________________
Emc-users mailing list
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Cheers, Gene Heskett

--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

andy pugh

2017-07-14 09:23:33 UTC

Post by dave
Ouch! My brain is fried. How weather or age is getting to me. The
procedure for the taper is clearly wrong.

Actually, it isn't. :-)

With an automatic facing boring head your procedure will work just
fine for boring tapers. You use a G33 move to move the toolpost the
right amount per rev to cut a taper based on the fixed infeed of the
boring head.
That is how I cut the taper for the tightening/measuring fixture built
in to the end-bracket of my milling machine:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3GMXIgdhcQp82QOr1

But, really, I was meaning that one might buy:
http://www.createtool.com/article.asp?id=63
or
http://www.rotagriponline.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=1027&Itemid=29
or even
http://www.edgetechnologyproducts.com/tool-post-drill-chuck/

Gene Heskett

2017-07-14 05:29:40 UTC

Post by Gene Heskett
Greetings all;
I have rx'd a 6" scale with a remote readout, made by Shars, or at
least resold by Shars, with the intention of putting it on my
Sheldon's tailstock.

Instead of that, why not CNC-drill with the toolpost? You get
peck-drilling and accurate depth that way.

True Andy, but I'd need a truly aligned hole in the table to support
the workpiece, which is a stainless steel rod, already bored thru
lengthwise and cut rifled, with the ability to locate that bore to
microinch accuracy. Oh, and I forgot, the hole in the table would
need to be a bit over 30" deep.
IOW, this is a lathe job.
Cheers, Gene Heskett

Please allow me to attempt to draw a verbal picture related to what I
thought Andy was saying
Mount a decent or indecent piece of steel on the crossfeed, large
enough to allow for a collet.
I'm thinking 5C or 16C. With a drill mounted in the chuck drill a
starter hole. Mount a boring head
in the chuck and bore dia for your choice of collet. Back out and do
the taper. Make yourself
a nice brass or bronze nut to affix the collet(s) in the holder. This
can now hold very long drills
for drilling for barrel inserts, reamers as appropriate, boring
heads,boring bars, etc. Your X zero is as good as your measuring
system and mechanics, ditto with Z. You can shim up if necessary to
align in Y: or grind a bit off the bottom of the block. It is as
stable and stiff as your cross-slide.
Hope this is useful; I certainly have found it so.
Dave

I've done similar ops on TLM, with varying degrees of success. But a
boring head is still on my list of tools to acquire.

Chambering reamers need to be float mounted but restrained from rotation,
and those mounts generally are tailstock inserts needing little red
wagonloads of money to put them on my real estate. The float mount is so
they are self-centering in the bore for best accuracy. OTOH, I've used
the Ackley-06 reamer 3 times now with the barrel still mounted in the
action. I had an 8 point socket, 3/8" drive, whose OD was about 3 or 4
thou smaller that the bolt bore, cranked it with a 3/8 speed handle,
checking headspace with a previously fireformed case. Tedious, but
worked very well as I was able to get a headspace fit that may have
been .0005" shorter. Unfortunately, that socket left along with a
toolbox, in northern CA, in 1982. I haven't seen another like it since,
or it would have followed me home.

Cheers Dave E., Gene Heskett

--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

Todd Zuercher

2017-07-14 12:48:04 UTC

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 1:29:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Need a pix
I've done similar ops on TLM, with varying degrees of success. But a
boring head is still on my list of tools to acquire.
Chambering reamers need to be float mounted but restrained from
rotation,
and those mounts generally are tailstock inserts needing little red
wagonloads of money to put them on my real estate. The float mount is
so
they are self-centering in the bore for best accuracy. OTOH, I've
used
the Ackley-06 reamer 3 times now with the barrel still mounted in
the
action. I had an 8 point socket, 3/8" drive, whose OD was about 3 or
4
thou smaller that the bolt bore, cranked it with a 3/8 speed handle,
checking headspace with a previously fireformed case. Tedious, but
worked very well as I was able to get a headspace fit that may have
been .0005" shorter. Unfortunately, that socket left along with a
toolbox, in northern CA, in 1982. I haven't seen another like it
since,
or it would have followed me home.

Maybe I don't know what you're looking for, but 8 point sockets aren't that hard to find.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-11-Pc-8-Point-Easy-Read-1-2-3-8-in-Drive-Std-SAE-Star-Socket-Set-/272727889403?hash=item3f7fd955fb:g:LlsAAOSwMmBVqFNd

Gene Heskett

2017-07-14 15:27:17 UTC